Thursday, September 29, 2011

The Pumpkin Conundrum

I don't like pumpkin beer.

I love pumpkin pie and I love beer, so it would make sense that an infusion of the two would be on the top of my beery list.

I don't like pumpkin beer.

Dispite all my rage, I am still just a rat in a cage.
A few days ago Jon, over at The Brew Site, gave props to Oregon brewed pumpkins, and that got me a' thinkin' (you know how that goes.) Why don't I like pumpkin beer? What is it about this omni-present, fall classic I don't groove on? Honestly, I've never thought about it. It's always just been that way. However in the interest of my reader(s), I've decided to explore this anti-affinity. I will put myself in harm's way, and drink not one, not two, but three pumpkin-ified beers, to get to the seedy, pulp of this issue. I will sacrifice for you faithful follower(s).

Two out of the three beers I drank, were on draught, at the Lionheart—Dogfish Head's Punkin Ale and Southern Tier's Pumking (not to be confused with the UK's, significantly more rare, Wychwood Brewery's Pumpking)—the third, on Mike Proctor's recommendation, was the bottled version of Smuttynose's Pumpkin Ale.

The copper hued Punkin Ale, was sweet and slightly drying, with a minimal hop presence and a noticeable brown sugar flavor. The aroma was nutmeg—all the way, but when tasting it, the spice, in general, was fairly subtle. I could pick up a little warm cinnamon note and again, nutmeg, but as I drank down the pint, the spiciness faded. I'm not sure if I just got used to it, but the first few sips seemed to have given a little more than the last few sips.

For being another pumpkin beer, The Southern Tier's Pumking, was the exact opposite of the Dogfish Head. Bright, golden-yellow and sweet, nearly cloying, with a tremendous vanilla and autumn spice perfume. It has an almost creamy, custard quality. This one, I'd have to put in the category of a dessert beer—not unlike this brewery's other big, sweet beers—Creme Brulee and Javah Stouts.

Smuttynose's cucurbitaceaen beer pours a hazy orange and is more in line with the Dogfish Head. Like the Punkin Ale, it gives off a definite, nutmegy fragrance, but with a little more clove, kicking around. It doesn't have the brown sugar element, like the Punkin, but this one does have a bit more hops to it, resulting in a pleasant bitterness.

Okay so there you go—three breweries and three pumpkin beers choked down drank. So, what did I learn? Well, it's not so much what I don't like, it's what I don't have. I think everybody realizes that we're not drinking pumpkin flavored beer (whether or not there's real pumpkin it them or not) we're drinking pumpkin pie spice flavored beers. I've noticed through this process, that even though I'm a big fan of it, I don't need my beer to emulate pumpkin pie. Instead, I want my pumpkin beer to emulate pumpkin bread. Those wonderful little loaves are just sweet enough, and stickey with a great deep brown color. Its got all those great autumn spices—cinnamon, nutmeg, all-spice, clove—but they're pretty understated. A little brown sugar, even sometimes molasses, helps it toasts-up wonderfully—top it with a little smear of butter and a drizzle of honey—that's good all-around.

So I ask, why not take those elements and build a beer around them? Start with a good two row malt, then take a little Belgian biscuit and maybe some chocolate malt, for a nice roasted, toasty flavor and a deep brown color. Add in some molasses and an earthy, mellow hop for a bittersweet bite; don't forget the pumpkin and dash of those autumn spices and a little honey to round everything out—hey maybe a hint of diacetyl for that buttery touch. That's what I'm looking for in a pumpkin beer. I know I'm in the minority when it comes to this group of beers, but maybe somebody will come around and take my suggestion. Until then...

I don't like pumpkin beer.

6 comments:

  1. I'm with you. To wit, I might like Pumpkin 'Bread' Ale; but, Pumpkin 'Pie' Ale, not so much.

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  2. The worst part about a Pumpkin beer is you just wasted a chance to drink a good tasting beer.

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  3. That's exactly what I said to Jon, over at the Brew Site!

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  4. To commemorate the season I will take a nice rauchbier over the pumpkin anyday!

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  5. I am not a fan of the pumpkin beers, but if I had to choose, I would go with Southern Tier Pumking or Heavy Seas Great'r Pumpkin. Overall, brewers could stop brewing them, and I would be indifferent

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  6. I had Wolaver's last night. It was more along the lines of what I'd like to see. But like Gravey mentioned, Rogue Smoke (and Maierfest) was on, too. I'd be inclined to go for the rauchbier.

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